Greetings, my peeps! I am back in the Mosh, safe and sound, and extremely well-rested. Most of you wouldn't even recognize me these days as a spell away with good friends was exactly what the doctor ordered, and I am overflowing with good cheer. In fact, I just fielded a phone call from my Moshi bestie who literally demanded, "Who are you, and what have you done with my Sarah??!!" Indeed. I am refreshed, rejuvenated, and ready to take on the next phase of the Project.
But before we get to that, a quick word about Istanbul and my friends there. Never fear, this is not a random tangent, but does indeed relate to Toa Nafasi. Somehow.
You see, when I first returned to the States from my original volunteer stint in Tanzania, I studied TESOL (Teaching English to Speakers of Other Languages) at Teachers College, Columbia University (my alma mater and, therefore, already a very special place to me) over the summer of 2008. While there, I met Jennifer and Trevor and the three of us became fast friends. Each of us brings something different yet complementary to the table and that summer was one of the best of my adult life, both in the classroom, on the streets of New York and, if we're really being honest, bellied up to the bar. We laughed, we cried, we got to know each other, we exchanged ideas, we learned to teach. Each in his or her own way.
And three more different people, I would challenge you to find. Trevor is originally from Utah and was an NYC newbie at the time, but about to spend a couple years getting his Master's at TC. Jennifer grew up upstate so was familiar with the city, but ready to leave the U.S. for love: she had met a wonderful Turkish man just before TC and wanted to follow her heart abroad. And me, I think you know....
The course was small in size (maybe 100 students) and short (just one summer), but we took courses in everything from Second Language Acquisition and Intercultural Communication to Pedagogical Grammar and Assessment. We also team-taught real adult language learners enrolled at TC's Community English Program and were observed and given feedback from TC advisers. Truth be told, it was a very thorough course and I learned a lot about teaching English as a second language....BUT....the friends I made have turned out to be far more significant than the certificate I earned! Especially given the fact that not a single day since the course ended have I taught in English; all my teaching experience in TZ has been in Swahili!!
Anyhoo, Trevor, Jennifer, and I have remained close friends for the past six years despite being physically very far-flung. Jennifer married her Turkish boyfriend, Betal, and they now have a beautiful baby boy. She taught ESL at the international school in Istanbul for several years but left when she went on maternity leave. When she is ready to work again, she plans to open her own kindergarten in her artsy neighborhood of Cihangir and teach the way she wants, in the Montessori style. She'll probably remain in Istanbul for the duration, but she gets to the States when she can.
Trevor completed his Master's at TC and taught ESL to high school students in the rough-and-tumble South Bronx for a couple years before heading to Bethlehem in 2013 to teach English at the university level. On the side, he supports a group of women who formed a cooperative whereby they cook food for people in order to raise money to care for their special needs children. Plastic bullets and tear gas while crossing the security wall between Israel and Palestine are a regular part of his current life, but I can happily (and selfishly) report that he'll be back in New York by the time I get there this Fall as a new job opportunity has come his way. And, again, me, I think you know....!
We've re-grouped a couple times since the summer of '08, often two of the three of us in New York or DC but only as a troika twice: in Istanbul in 2010 and now in 2014. I like to joke that we are the Istabullu version of the Olympics, a rare and magnificent event that occurs every four years! It's funny, I never had any strong desire to visit Istanbul before, but it has since become one of my favorite foreign destinations. Not only because Jennifer lives there, knows all the great places to go, and speaks the language, but also because it is a beautiful, cosmopolitan, and multicultural city. Since this is not a travel blog, I won't gush at length but should anyone want any scoop on the Big Bul, do let me know! It is a must-see!!
I guess my final point is this: I find myself very lucky to have made two such good friends with whom I share common interests (travel, education, red wine) and great conversation (books, politics, the finer points of several premium cable television shows). That we can come and go in and out of each other's lives physically yet still remain as comfortable and intimate as ever is a testament not only to *our* bond but to the notion of friendship in general. And the fact that we all met while in the pursuit of our life's work tops off the whole shebang.
Hear, hear!!
Since this entry is already pretty long and more than a little mushy, I will save the tale of today's re-entry into Msaranga for next week. Photos of the troika (in non-troika format since somebody had to hold the camera) below!
Just to be clear, the village of Msaranga where the Toa Nafasi pilot project is currently being implemented is NOT technically a part of the Moshi Rural District discussed below. It is, in fact, considered Moshi Urban....despite the fact that goats and monkeys rival the human population there....
Anyhoo, enjoy this piece, and here's hoping for a "Sarah original" next week....!
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For many years, Moshi Rural District has been well-known for its development in education. The district, which is made up of 31 wards, is home to several universities, and the people from that area have scattered all over the country as well as abroad in their quest for further education, business, and employment. However, these days, that fame is gradually disappearing and there is a growing concern of people wanting to find a quick solution to the recent poor performance in education and to restore Moshi's glory.
There are many factors inhibiting the achievement of good results in education such as lack of motivation in the workplace, shortage of teaching materials and learning facilities as well as poor working conditions. Additionally, it is sad to state that the government owes Moshi Rural District teachers a staggering TSH1.9billion in arrears. The Chairperson of the Tanzania Teachers Union (TTU) in Moshi Rural, Ms. Angela Kimath, says it will be difficult to successfully improve education in the district if the sum is not paid, but she is hopeful the matter will be settled soon.
According to the 2012 census, the population of Moshi Rural is 466,737 people. The TTU Secretary for the district, Mr. Dawson Temu, says there are currently 2,556 teachers in primary schools and 1,125 in secondary schools while the teacher training colleges have 257 teaching staff members.
Amongst Ms. Kimath's concerns is that the pass rate for Standard VII students has dropped dramatically and this is a great challenge not only to teachers but also to parents/guardians and the government. Data on primary education shows that in 2010, the pass rate was 61% which was improved upon the following year (75%), but fell substantially in 2012 with only 38%. The district bounced back with a moderate pass rate the next year with 65%.
Whether these low rates are due to the large number of pupils in the classrooms remains unclear, but other challenges in schools are scarcity of teachers, especially in Science subjects as well as lack of working tools. Still, according to Mr. Temu, primary education inspectors were generally carrying out their duties well.
Ms. Kimath is optimistic that great strides will be achieved in the near future as Moshi Rural District is fortunate to be incorporated in a program that goes by the abbreviation QUEETS, or Quality Education through Expert Teachers System.
This program is run by CWT (Chama Cha Walimu Tanzania), Moshi Rural District Council, and Helvetas, a Swiss agency that is said to be one of the most experienced and largest development organizations in Switzerland. QUEETS was introduced on July 1, 2011, and aims to improve the teaching of Mathematics, English, Science, and Environment subjects for primary schools. The program concentrates on three regions in the north of the country - Arusha, Manyara, and Kilimanjaro.
"Last year, 84 schools received the training and this year others will go through so that by next year, we will have accomplished the task," says Ms. Kimath.
The hope is that after the teacher training, all pupils of Moshi Rural District will be better educated. By joining together a group of national facilitators with with international assistance, the program seeks to develop improved curricula and training aids so that the facilitators (Expert Teachers) may then train already competent teachers in selected topics.
In order to ensure the sustainability of the project, the TTU closely collaborates with the education authorities at national, regional, and district levels. Mr. Temu says the TTU in Moshi Rural District is looking forward to a bright future in teachers' and students' performances on one side and in the government meeting its obligation in teachers' remuneration on the other side.


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